Reynolds Bicycle Wheels

It is a pretty complex for someone who has a lot of cycling experience. I have an old Dawes racer. It has a label that is a part of Reynolds 5? 1. I can not read the middle digit, but suppose it's a 3, which is: a framework Reynolds 531.

He snapped on the freewheel side of the frame just before connected to the rear wheel, just above the slot to the rear wheel with the threaded hole for the rear derailleur below,

There is a small triangular section, a little over an inch on each side, which connects this part 'of the frame to the main frame tubes, and both sides ofthis small triangle off again just after the tubes and, just after they cease to be tubes and flatten and join this agreement triangle.

Can I have this welded? Maybe inside the triangle could be filled with metal, but is it strong enough to be trusted?

I just put a new drive cogs / chain / freewheel and shifters on the bike, and I much prefer not having to start!

Thank you for any help you can offer.

Hands is the closest to date, but nobody got it quite right. The play was abandoned. Campy makes the most, and theirs are not expensive. You do not weld! They must be soldered low temperatures - with a brass brazing rod, not with silver solder (I think he means silver brazing rod, which is OK, but brass is easier to use.)

I did it myself and I'm no expert in welding. The hard part is keeping it properly aligned while soldering without template. I did it by putting a rear wheel old farm in the legs to keep it straight during soldering.

Your image is Reynolds 531 steel frame very old-school tube. It should be good for many years if you get this repair done properly. One of the advantages of steel is that it can be repaired successfully by a competent amateur.

Good luck.

Bring the car to a garage with a block 4 of beer and a big smile.
Try and time it so they are not rushed - do not try to end the week of the month, when everyone wants MOT. From mid day - early in the month should be good.
Garages use MIG welding - which should be ideal for this, although it may need to be dressed with a grinder in a row, and finally cleaned and spray painted later.

Ben is correct.

It is a relief that if done correctly will be completely trusted as long as the base metal is in good condition. I even made the waiver of the steel plate were perfectly flat. There are several sites on the Web that will give you the exact part (s) you need.

Contact a pro bike shop and ask them. They will be able to tell you if possible. I would worry a distorted context. Aluminum is also more difficult to weld than steel.

is a "dropout" and can be replaced.

bicycle tubes generally do not weld. heat can damage or weaken them. they are soldered with solder money, not welded.

Yes ... you can solder ..
its an old frame so it would be quite high steel quiltey ..
I would say it is welded with a "m.ig;" welder as an "arc" welder is n ot as clean soldering with ..

Get a new framework. All parts of your can easily be moved.

A Broken Frame is broken. It will never be the same feeling.

bring it to a bike shop

The broken part is called the dropout, and yes, you can change it without any problem. It happens quite frequently, and in fact, some top executives abuse mountain bike legs are designed with replaceable so you do not have to go through the trouble to repair and welding (on the settings where it is safe / possible to do so).

All framebuilder can set dropouts news for you ... they can recomm.