Can anyone tell me the model number of the Dawes old bike? Dawes, it seems, can not!? I am trying to find the model number of my old bike body Dawes alloy. It began, I think, as a speed of 10.
I contacted Dawes, even sent pictures, but they did not recognize. They said the plant had moved and I think the old records lost. And it seems that there was nobody he is old enough to remember! .
Anyway, here are four pictures of the bike. I took some closeups of the joints at the base of the seatpost, the column below the handlebars. and one of the pedals / pedal area.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26803150 @ N0 ...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26803150 @ N0 ...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26803150 @ N0 ...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26803150 @ N0 ...
Thank you for any help!
There are some reasons that Dawes may not recognize the bike, especially according to your description.
Firstly, the framework is not an alloy of aluminum alloy, that is. It is a steel frame. The joints are called legs. The tubes are inserted into the miter and legs, and then soldered.
You're probably right in the bike starting life as a speed of ten, it is likely in the late 1960s/early 1970s. At this time of history Dawes they become executives pleasant and others that are acceptable to the masses. Please falls into the latter category ... nothing special.
As time passed and bikes from Asia has become commonplace Dawes and a number of other Euro bike companies (like Motobecane and Mercier) were bought by marketing companies who have used the name recognition as a springboard for sales. They do not look at traditional European craftsmanship.
Return to your bike. It was probably never developed a model number for the one you have, but you might be able to obtain information from Bob Jackson Cycles in Leeds England, I think that they trade cycles RJR. They have a loooong history of framebuilding the UK and may be able to help.
Just so you're not disappointed, your bike is probably not worth the trouble to restore it if it is of some sentimental value.
EDIT: Reynolds 531 sSTEEL. In fact, it is the reference steel tubeset for bicycles, made in England. Made of steel molybdneum manganese. Since you have provided this bit of info I can say that the framework is one of the best items Dawes is a classic.
I can tell you crank size you need if you give the crank that you use and the number of teeth on the plates.
EDIT 2: OK, I guess that the crank is original. You can use a 70mm Shimano bottom bracket UN72, 122.5mm spindle with a spacer of 2 mm on the drive side. If you can not get a 70mm, you can use a 68mm, but the cut adjustable (non-drive side) is not aligned with the frame, it will go inside the frame a little.
EDIT 3: You need to be measured incorrectly. Measure the pin ONLY, not the studs (if equipped). No bike has ever had a spindle length was 133mm longer and is a mountain bike Super Duty. Even crossover tandem cranks (with trays on both arms) spindles are 127.5mm. According to my data, the modern pin I above is correct. Remember to put the spacer 2 mm between the bearing cup and the frame. Uh, you have the bearing is installed, right? This would be the cause of your problems. In addition, if the rod is installed in reverse could be a problem too.
Posted on May 6, 2010.